It’s no accident that Hiroshima, Japan and Ypres, Belgium are official “sister cities”. Both cities were nearly obliterated in wartime destruction. Tragically, Hiroshima was the target of the first nuclear weapon in history. Ypres, a municipality in West Flanders, was the site of the first use of chemical warfare (think: mustard gas) coupled with the futility of trench warfare. What follows is a glimpse into a little-known vignette associated with Ypres — a story with a long Belgian history— a story with a long Irish history — and a story that continues today.
Since 1665 the Benedictine Abbey (known as The Abbey of Our Lady of Grace) in Ypres, Flanders attracted the daughters of Irish nobility as students and postulants. The Abbey was patronized by wealthy, Irish Catholic families living in exile from religious persecution. For nearly three hundred years the nuns, known as The Irish Dames of Ypres lived their lives of prayer and spirituality seeking: “God, education, hospitality and dedication to a fervent and solid piety.” All that changed in the early days of World War I. In August of 1914, their tranquillity was shattered when Germany invaded Belgium. Ypres, lying unfortunately in Germany’s planned “Path to the Sea”, was the epicentre of the conflict. The neutrality of Belgium was ignored as the German offensive began, By October French and British troops entered the war in opposition. The series of battles in and around Ypres were brutal. New weaponry like the rapid-fire machine gun and long-range artillery (the howitzer) made their debut. But most notably the introduction of mustard gas combined with trench warfare failed to give either side an advantage and a series of stalemates ensued. Casualties, both military and civilian over the next few years were so staggering as to be incalculable. One historian put the figure at close to one million casualties. (you read that correctly!). Ypres was obliterated without a single building left standing. Caught in the epicenter of this nightmare were the Irish nuns of the Benedictine order. Their beloved abbey was reduced to rubble by shellfire. So massive was the artillery fire that blasts were heard as far away as London. Homeless, hungry and in constant danger the nuns were, according to archival reports, “literally walking ahead of the bombs.” Out of the fog of war emerged the most unlikely band of fellow Irishmen….enter the “Dirty Shirts”.
The Royal Munster Fusiliers (nicknamed: The Dirty Shirts…but more about that later) was an Irish militia regiment with a long history. Despite a tradition of opposition to their recruitment into the British Army, their ranks were filled with Irish Catholics The regiment was comprised of adventurers, sons of farmers, petty criminals, neer-do-wells and street urchins. Their reputation preceded them as they were known for their pluck, hard drinking and salty behaviour. However The Dirty Shirts had a certain esprit de corps with a long tradition of courage, devotion and honor. Their regimental roots have been traced back centuries (circa 1652) when they had fought bravely for the Queen in India, Burma, Java, Afghanistan and in the South African Boer War.
In World War I, The Dirty Shirts would rise to the occasion — and then some. In learning the plight of the Irish nuns at Ypres, they would fight with distinction once again displaying unusual gallantry and valor. Under fire, running out of ammunition, surrounded and outnumbered 8 to 1, the Fusiliers offered fierce resistance against the Germans. Out of uniform and clad in filth because of the combat in the trenches, the apply named Dirty Shirts were able to mobilize the nuns. It was an epic stand. Through stealth and fortitude, but driven more by loyalty to their fellow Irish, they were able to evacuate the Irish Dames to the North Sea, and later the relative safety of London. But the story doesn’t end there…
After the war, it became very apparent to the sisters that they would never be able to return to their 300-year-old home in Belgium. By 1920 they took possession of an abandoned castle— the Kylemore Castle — along Ireland’s west coast. To raise funds, the community of nuns opened a boarding school for girls and a day school for local children. They also farmed 400 hectares on the castle grounds raising livestock and vegetables. Today, the intrigue and restoration of the castle and its beautiful surroundings resulted in Kylemore Castle in becoming one of the most popular tourist destinations in Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. A castle museum allows visitors to glimpse sites into the Benedictine nuns story line. The facility is presently owned and managed by the Kylemore Trust whose philanthropic mission is to support the Irish Dames to continue to tell the story of their 300 years in Ypres AND to honor the heroic efforts of The Dirty Shirts.
Fun facts
— In 2015 the Benedictine nuns of the Kylemore Abbey entered into a partnership with The University of Notre Dame (South Bend, Indiana U.S.A.). Notre Dame students have the opportunity to attend residential classes which include creative writing, environmental studies, literature, and spiritual retreats. Notre Dame’s athletic teams are nicknamed the Fighting Irish… consider the irony!
— Archival records are unclear how the Irish regiment actually earned their moniker of The Dirty Shirts. Some historians believe they got this name during some of the long, oppressive heat in the South African or India wars where they would shed their uniforms to sweaty, soiled shirts. Others believe it was during the battles at Ypres where they once again shed their uniforms to better able function in the muddy (and bloody!) trenches of WWI.
— After World War I, The Dirty Shirts received (3) Victoria Crosses— the highest and most prestigious British military award.
— Since 1652 The Dirty Shirts were collectively Irishmen fighting under the British flag. All that changed with the outbreak of the Irish War of Independence (1919-21). Joining forces with the Irish Republican Army against the British, The Dirty Shirts brought combat experience, arms and ammunition to that cause.
