The phrase “hidden gem” can be over-used but in the case of Herefordshire in the UK it’s entirely apt.
The cathedral city of Hereford was once an important military centre.
That was a few centuries ago but, today, Herefordshire is a real leader in other ways, for innovation, championing local products and the sheer friendliness of the locals.
Here’s a “Top Ten” of the reasons why the county is well worth discovering.
Start the day in style
As you’re in England what better way to start any new day than by sampling some of the county’s best produce (including a full English breakfast, maybe).
There’s a couple of spots well worth sampling such delights, including the lovely Castle House Hotel in Hereford which a wholesome breakfast offering is open to both guests and non guests and which also has an interesting Benelux connection as it was once owned by Albert Heijn, the largest supermarket chain in The Netherlands.
Away from the county’s main city and you’ll find a terrific, multi award-winning Lowe Farm B&B, set in rolling Herefordshire countryside, which celebrates its 30th anniversary next year.
The place is lovingly overseen by Juliet Williams, a larger-than-life character who, commendably, serves up very yummy and healthy breakfasts sourced almost entirely from local products and producers.
Juliet, who is nearing 70 but still full of energy and enthusiasm for what she does, has pulled in a staggering 27,000 guests since opening (including the Spanish ambassador to the UK and coachloads of Japanese tourists), 60 per cent of them repeat visitors which is a clear sign of the quality of service she provides.
Juliet and hubby Clive also boast a minor Belgian link: the best man at their wedding was from Belgium. This bubbly character takes great pride in sourcing her products locally and cooking only healthy ingredients, some sourced from the same local butcher used by famous TV chef James Martin.
History in Hereford
2026 is the 1,350th anniversary of the Hereford diocese and the place oozes history.
One must-visit place here is the cathedral, dating from Saxon times, and Mappa Mundi, one of the world’s unique medieval treasures. Constructed on a single sheet of vellum over 700years ago, the map shows how the world was interpreted by scholars at that time.
Look closely and you’ll spot Gent on the map in the Europe section, curiously located in the bottom left of the world.
Close by is the equally wonderful Chained Library, home to some 229 medieval manuscripts and over 1,200 early printed books. It is the largest library of its kind to survive with all its chains, rods and locks intact.
This magnificent cathedral is also home to fantastic architecture, a mighty Willis organ, stained glass (including a stunning tribute to the UK’s SAS, which is based locally) and artwork and it’s all brought to life by a 400-strong team of volunteers, all very passionate about what they do too.
A short walk away takes you to Hereford’s historic town hall, “home” to the current lady mayor (a rarity in itself as there’s only been 7 in the city’s entire history).
Here (and tours are available), you can learn all about Hereford’s rich history and be reminded that its castle was once second only in size to Windsor.
The city boasts another proud record: along with the City of London, it has never been defeated in battle (the local SAS people will be proud of that).
There’s also yet another nice historical connection to Belgium: in the council chamber of this striking Edwardian Baroque council building, where the mayor presides over council meetings, the Belgian link is actually commemorated by a framed, unusual Union Jack flag mounted high above one of the doors that uniquely features a central shield with a French inscription. The inscription reads: “Expression of our gratitude to our benefactors Mr & Mrs GB Greenland and members of the Committee – Belgian refugees in Hereford, Nov 9th 1915”
Following the German invasion of Belgium in August 1914, roughly 250,000 Belgian refugees fled to Britain. Hereford city council holds the distinct honour of being the very first British city to officially step forward and offer hospitality and sanctuary to these displaced families.
On November 9, 1915, the Belgian refugees living in Hereford presented a beautiful silk flag to the Mayor (G.B. Greenland) as a permanent token of friendship and “immense gratitude” for the local community’s safe housing and ongoing kindness.
You might like to take one of the enthralling tours of the town hall which are overseen by a very entertaining Scotsman called John Marshall who is the Mayor’s Officer. He is responsible for looking after some serious silverware here, including the Civic Sword, which is no less than 349 years old, mayoral robes, including one used in Queen Victoria’s coronation and, of course, the mayoral golden chain which dates from the 1800s.
There’s precious little that the very likeable John does not know about Hereford and its rich history and he, like so many others in the county, genuinely loves his job.. so much so that he’ll happily extend his planned retirement to continue doing it.
Local artisans
Whisky production in a traditional cider county? Well, yes, and very good it is too.
At least that is the case at Rosemaund Farm Distillery which has been brought back under family ownership in recent times. Described as the largest little distillery in Herefordshire, the site, formerly the home of Chase Distillery (vodka), is a real hive of activity and just marked its latest release (“the Director’s Cut”).
The sprawling site even boasts a touch of Hollywood glitz as world famous film director Guy Ritchie is involved here with his ‘Wild Kitchen / Wild Table’ concept – an outdoor cooking and eating tent where a full blown meal can be enjoyed after a tour of what is a very impressive whisky making operation.
Criss-crossing some of the county’s marvellous meandering country roads leads to another, equally laudable, local artisan: the Monkland cheese dairy, which was run for over three decades by Mark and Karen Hindle. They now operate the adjacent café while Dean Storey, a former chef, now owns the dairy. He makes the cheeses and runs tours.
While the French may be world-renowned for their cheeses, here’s proof (were it needed) that the Brits can do the job just as well.
Tours for the public give you the chance to witness up close how its delicious cheeses are made, partly utilising an impressive Dutch Gouda vat which can hold 1,000 litres of cow’s milk.
Spot of Lunch
Back in Hereford, the county’s entrepreneurial spirit is certainly alive and kicking at The Yard, a collective of small-scaled eateries.
Overseeing things here are a couple of go-ahead brothers, Edwin and Dorian Kirk who offer vital mentoring skills to would-be local start ups.
Ed says, “We help people who are just starting out to build up their own business and become owners themselves. In a way, it is all about achieving their dreams just as me and Dorian have managed to do.”
After trekking round all morning, it’s a great place for a filling, very tasty but affordable light lunch (be it pizza, burger or steak) and drink (there are some fab local ales available). As with so many places here, it is all about cutting food miles and “buying local”: much of the lovely food here is sourced directly from local products and local producers.
If you happen to visit in late October, the space transforms for Oktoberfest, complete with Bavarian beers and music.
Things to Do
One of the reasons they call this county a hidden gem are the very welcoming local folk and they include Jon Williams and Sarah Monk who run Eastnor Pottery.
Having met at art school in Bath, the couple moved to “idyllic” Herefordshire where they live and work on the Eastnor Castle estate offering very enjoyable potter’s wheel experiences alongside making their own ceramics.
After having fun on Jon and Sarah’s potters wheel you really must pop along to admire the wonderful Eastnor Castle, home of the Hervey-Bathurst family, with lavish interiors containing medieval armour, fine art … and another reminder of Belgium.
This comes in the shape of some impressive Belgian tapestries,including three Bruges tapestries in the Staircase Hall and more in the Gothic Dining Room.
James Hervey-Bathurst, the current owner, moved here with his family in 1989 but his family have been there since 1949 and have ancestral links to the original owners going back centuries.
He recalls, “We were presented with a wonderful but daunting challenge.”
That’s a reference to the rundown state of the property which has, over the years, happily been restored to its former glory.
Make sure you don’t leave without having a look in the grounds at something you’d not expect to see in rural England … a segment of the Berlin Wall.
The very affable and welcoming James bought the 3metre-high wall last year and had it shipped to the UK, all 2.6 tons of it. He hopes its presence,close to the deer park (nice for walks) reminds visitors, young and old, of how conflict can divide peoples and communities, a message as relevant today as ever.
Other possibles
You need to allow time to fully experience and enjoy all the many things this county has to offer.
But, time (and energy levels)permitting there’s lots more to keep you busy, occupied and entertained.
These include Black Mountain Adventure near Brecon; Canwood Gallery, a contemporary art space and the great selection of farm shops that dot the landscape, including Oakchurch – just the place to stock up on some of that lovely local produce before heading home.
Eating Out
You’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to sampling the quite wonderful local produce in this county, be it north, south, east or west.
In the south (at Woolhope),for instance, is The Crown, a terrific pub/resto run for some years by yet another friendly Herefordian, Annalisa Slocombe.
The eatery, recently very tastefully refurbished, serves a great mix of pub classics,like good old fish and chips, and offers some lovely local beers to wash down a very satisfying meal.
Located in a tiny village (est.200 dwellings) the menu (like the pub) is constantly evolving (weekly) but as Annalisa explains, faves like steak remain “to avoid a customer revolt.” From the end of this month, she hopes to have 8 en suite rooms available too.
Crickets lovers will feel at home here as there’s plenty of cricket memorabilia on the wall, including a bat used at the England v New Zealand Test in 1999 and a quite wonderful collection of Wisden books,dating from 1988.
Another fab place, this time back in Hereford, and also a real success story is Beefy Boys.Hereford was the first to open in what has become a fast-growing chain (the latest is scheduled for Cambridge later this month) and it’s easy to see why.
The county is renowned world wide for the quality of its beef and that, along with some great service, is one big reason why the burgers here are on another level to most other places (worth noting that the meat is sourced from just the one, local, farm).
The Beefy Boys story all started in Hereford and the venue has expanded in recent times to now accommodate up to 250.
Assistant GM Kai says, “Even midweek it’ bustling here and we’re still growing.”
Not too far away, in an easterly direction, takes you to L’Ecole des Amis which serves some refined French cuisine in a wonderfully-restored old school house.
The two men at the helm of this highly popular resto are Cedric L’herbier, who hails from le Touquet in France, and Bruce Havard.
Cedric, who’s had over 40 years experience in the resto trade both in the UK and France, recalls how the rundown building was badly in need in “some TLC” when they came by it.
Some quick fire restoration work – it transformed in the space of just 12 months – has resulted in a lovely, informal place to enjoy top class cuisine that Cedric describes as “unsophisticated and unpretentious.”
They change just a couple of dishes every couple of weeks and there’s also a brasserie-style lunch menu.
On the opening night, an estimated 80percent of the customers travelled from where Cedric used to work in another part of the county, about 18miles away, and he and Bruce still command a loyal customer base.
It is mostly all down to the fab fresh food, cooked with real care and which certainly makes one French man gratified that he took the plunge for “one last adventure” in his working life.
Where to stay
If you enjoy peace and quiet – and a few animals for company – there’s one place for you here: Pudleston Court, nestled in 50 acres of beautiful private parkland, hard to imagine you are also just a few short kilometres from the busy town of Leominster.
This is home to seven holiday lets, five of which are original estate buildings (formerly used for everything from housing geese to a rifle range) and all wonderfully refurbished.
One, the delightful Meadow View, is a barn conversion, can sleep up to 6 and has its very own private pool. It boasts underfloor heating, three bedrooms, a log burning stove and delightful terrace.
Don’t be surprised if, on arrival, you are greeted by some curious “locals” – peacocks that are free to roam (you should also make your acquaintance with the charming young alpacas in a nearby field).
There’s also another link the Heijn family as they are former owners here. The current owner is a Swiss lady who fell in love with the property when she read an article about in Country Life magazine.
She’d always dreaming of owning her own English castle (who hasn’t?) and this was her chance to do just that.
She has overseen a loving and carefully planned restoration that’s still ongoing with the future focus also on expansion into the corporate market (by hosting company stays, board meetings, training days and the like).
Approached via those unique meandering roads -where the only hold up is likely to be due to cattle crossing the road – this is a genuine oasis of peace and tranquility in an increasing mad world.
Oh, and there’s yet another Belgian link: Rhi Baines, the Chief Operating Officer, has fond memories of Belgium as she celebrated her 21sth birthday in Brussels.
How to get there
It could not be easier for people travelling by car from mainland Europe, including Belgium. Once off the ferry or shuttle, it is motorway much of the way to Herefordshire.
Once you’ve navigated the M25 around London you can via the M40 and Gloucester or the M40 and Worcester. Beware there is no m-way in the county so allow a bit extra time for getting around.
Summary
It all adds up to a great getaway, whatever time of the year that is. Pay a visit and you can well see why they call this pretty part of England a “hidden gem.”
And one excellent way of finding out more about this creative county is via the Eat Sleep Live Herefordshire, a leading independent destination marketing company.
Its supports not only Herefordshire’s food and drink businesses, accommodation providers, activities, leisure venues and pursuits and events but promotes the county’s crafts, creatives and artisans.
Further info:
www.eatsleepliveherefordshire.co.uk
https://www.herefordcathedral.org/
https://www.pudlestoncourtltd.co.uk/
