Thierry Vanholsbeek’s New Restaurant Aims to Revive Belgian Dining Culture

Restauranteur Thierry Vanholsbeek is hoping his ambitious new business venture will buck a worrying trend in the Belgian HORECA sector.
Data shows that, when it comes to their eating habits, more and more Belgians are opting for fast food chains rather than “traditional” restaurants.
Not only that but, according to data, Belgians go to a restaurant less than they did five years ago.
Thierry, though, has recently taken proactive action which, indirectly, aims to address both these issues.
This comes in the form of a new restaurant he has opened in Brabant Walloon – and the good news is that the early signs are very encouraging.
The restaurant is called Au Milieu De Nulle Part (which translates as in the “middle of nowhere” – more on that later) and, judging by the interest already shown by the dining out public it has every chance of success.
Thierry already has a highly popular resto, specialising in fish (Momo la Crevette) in nearby Waterloo but, despite all the doom and gloom surrounding the horeca trade, he wanted to branch out and launch a second place.
Just down the road at Genappe is where you find his upmarket and very pleasant new resto.
First, the name. It isn’t really in the middle of nowhere but just off a busy and well-used fast road – the name was “inherited” from the previous place, also a restaurant.
That had a totally different concept and had actually closed. Having been empty for a while, Thierry, at first, sadly found the building in a state of some disrepair.
It has been given a total refurbishment and the result is a space that’s very cosy and intimate but very stylish and quite swish at the same time.
A feature is a superb 1930s glass roof (there’s also, weather permitting, a garden terrace) and nice to report that the tables are well-spaced, affording plenty of privacy.
The motto here emphasises the value Thierry and his team put on utilising locally sourced, fresh and seasonal products and ingredients in the cooking.
But it could also be: “size is not everything.”
Do not come here looking for one of those huge cards with a vast range of dishes.
Thierry has very deliberately opted for a much smaller menu, but one that really illustrates the value of quality over quantity.
You will most certainly find no industrial-scale production in anything here.
You will be presented with a small and limited number of dishes from which to choose, normally a choice of three starters and three mains, plus dessert.
Another slight diversion from the norm is that these are not listed in a traditional menu but, rather, on a board on the walls (albeit in the format of a menu).
The offerings are changed very regularly, again a deliberate policy to ensure that such a rapid and maximum rotation aids quality.
Thierry and his team work particularly closely with local producers and suppliers, including butchers and cheese makers, but even also for the relatively humble things like the bread offered to diners.
Some of these even get a name check, again something of a rarity at many restos, on the front page, no less, of the menu.
One example of a delightful starter is Tatakide boeuf, cooked with a rich mayo and pickle and very appetising, and an equally succulent mi-cuit de saumon.
Three examples of mains, meanwhile, are joues des cochon confites, with red onions, fish “of the moment” and aubergines in different textures, with lentils and vegetables. All are delicious.
The desserts might feature panna cotta, snickers ice cream and an assortment of local cheese.
All are mouth-watering and you will not be disappointed but, as the menu changes so often, the choice could be quite different from the above, of course.
Along with some terrific cuisine, you will find some great drinks and wines from a particularly well-stocked bar, located at the entrance.
Presentation here is everything too, and the food, visually, is something to behold.
Service, too, is of the highest order and credit must go to Michael, who manages both this resto and Momo in Waterloo, and his hard-working and pleasant young team including Ismael and Victor.
Credit also, naturally, to head chef Louis Collin who, backed by his No.2 Sonya Panagiotopoulos, is responsible for the marvellous served food here.
So, it may have been a risk for Thierry to take on a new place in these uncertain times for his chosen trade but all credit to him and his already booming army of loyal customers will wish him bonne chance. Closed Sundays.